From Guwahati to Ziro: A Journey of Hearts - Arunachal Pradesh

Motivation to Explore

It had been ten months since I left my job, and the startup I had been working for wasn’t picking up as expected. Restlessness crept in, and I found myself yearning for a break. Being an old-time Imtiaz Ali fan, the allure of the mountains called to me with irresistible force. This time, it was Arunachal Pradesh—a state I had long dreamed of visiting.

Arunachal’s allure wasn’t just its breathtaking landscapes. My long-term girlfriend was from Arunachal, and life had taken us on separate paths. Perhaps it was the thought of breathing the same air she once did that fueled my desire. The majestic hills and the promise of new beginnings awaited me.

After a few phone calls to learn about the protocols, I secured my Inner Line Permit (ILP) without a hitch, online.

With the logistics sorted, I prepared for the journey: approximately 420 kilometers of narrow, hilly terrains on my trusty Yamaha R15. The timing couldn’t have been better as the famous Ziro Music Festival was just around the corner.

The Journey Begins

The morning of my departure began with a conversation with Max, a dear friend. Together, we chalked out the best route and arranged for my accommodation at his tent site, High Hopes Weekends. The plan was simple: a one-day ride to Ziro, a seven-day stay, and then a return to Guwahati.

However, I started late and ended up halting for the night at Biswanath Chariali. The city offered its own charms. I explored the bustling market area, enjoyed a hearty meal at a Bhojanaloy, and treated myself to coffee at 7th Heaven. After settling in at Hotel Tripti, I called it a night, ready for the adventures ahead.

Ascending to Arunachal

The next morning, with a full stomach, I resumed my journey. As the roads ascended and the air grew cooler, the thrill of the mountains gripped me. The twists and turns of the narrow roads, with steep drops on one side, heightened my senses. Crossing into Arunachal Pradesh was marked by a checkpoint where my ILP was verified. The vibrant graffiti in Itanagar welcomed me, and just a short ride later, I passed Naharlagun, the town she once called home.

The road ahead became increasingly challenging—narrow, winding, and dotted with waterfalls.

The beauty of the mountains was juxtaposed with the adrenaline rush of riding on precarious roads. My GoPro's battery died as I approached a breathtaking viewpoint, momentarily dampening my spirits. But the view that unfolded before me made up for everything. Surrounded by the majesty of the hills, I felt truly alive.

Arriving in Ziro

As night fell, I entered Ziro’s model villages. The interconnected villages, with their bamboo houses and Assam-type structures, exuded a charm of their own. My camp was in Hong, and I reached there via Biiri village, guided by Max’s detailed directions.

The warmth of the local boys who greeted me at the campsite was heartening. They prepared hot water for a quick shower, a simple yet touching gesture. The campsite, nestled amidst a bamboo grove, was surrounded by dense forest. Sleeping in an elevated tent felt surreal, as if I was one with nature.

Exploring Ziro’s Beauty

The next morning, the first rays of sunlight filtered through the bamboo, waking me up to a serene and pristine world. The open fields, dotted with vibrant flowers and bordered by rolling hills, took my breath away. Riding through these landscapes felt like a scene straight out of a Bollywood movie.

Ziro’s charm extended beyond its natural beauty. I visited Saint Claret College, where a literary festival was taking place. The town buzzed with activities surrounding the Ziro Music Festival, known for its commitment to sustainability. Despite controversies, the festival has significantly contributed to the town’s development.

The evenings were magical. I had the privilege of tasting local wine and listening to stories from the tribespeople. Arunachal Pradesh is home to 26 major tribes and over 100 sub-tribes, each with its own unique culture. I learned about the Adi, Apatani, Nyishi, and other tribes, their rich histories, and their unwavering pride in being Indian.

The Ziro Music Festival

The Ziro Music Festival was everything I had imagined and more. People from all over India came together, united by their love for music. The pleasant weather, delicious food, and free-spirited atmosphere made it an unforgettable experience. The campsite buzzed with energy as stories were shared and friendships were forged.

Special Mention

I got lost amidst the numerous No Entry signs set up for the festival. A kind sub-inspector from the Arunachal Police not only guided me back to my campsite but also left me with a lasting impression of the helpfulness and humanity of the people here.

The Journey Back

As my time in Ziro came to an end, I began my ride back to Guwahati. The journey was marked by torrential rain, but the memories of the past week kept me warm. Riding through the rain, with the hills as my constant companion, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for the experiences and the people I had encountered.

Reflections

This trip to Arunachal Pradesh was more than just a journey; it was a rediscovery of myself. From the thrill of riding through challenging terrains to the warmth of the locals and the magic of the Ziro Music Festival, every moment was etched into my memory. Arunachal’s beauty, both in its landscapes and its people, left an indelible mark on my heart.

As I returned to Guwahati, drenched but content, I realized that the mountains had given me what I sought: clarity, inspiration, and a renewed sense of purpose. Arunachal Pradesh, with its unparalleled charm, will always hold a special place in my heart.